The western slope of Haleakala, Maui's resident volcano, is known as Upcountry. This region is comprised of residential areas and a couple of mellow towns. It also boasts much arable land, and many Upcountry farms, such as those in Kula and Haiku, provide produce to many of the island's fine restaurants. In the northern mid-section of the island, slightly inland from the coast, lies the town of Paia. Paia is at once a funky strip of cafés, restaurants, and shops, as well as a communal space for surfers and locals to kick around and "talk story." Paia tends to get a bit tourist-crowded, so if you've got a yen for an even more relaxed setting, head several miles southeast of Paia to Makawao. Makawao is home to a smaller assortment of eateries and shops, but this town's true charm is that it's really on island time--moving at just the right, dreamy pace.

East of the Upcountry area lies the expanse of Haleakala National Park, comprised of the base and summit of the massive volcano. The park covers over half of the island's mass, and holds infinite delights for the nature lover. This region is where the island proves that Maui No Ka Oi (Maui is the best).

At the park's core stands Haleakala, the 10,000-foot volcano. Transitioning from a desolate, lunar atmosphere at the crater to rainforest density at the base, Haleakala contains an awe-inspiring array of landscapes and microclimates. The entire island of Manhattan could fit into Haleakala's crater. The crater's vast span, cold and arid climate, lack of plant life, and craggy rock formations evoke the feeling that it is not of this earth. Despite its harsh conditions, the crater is eerily beautiful, and watching the sunrise from the mountain's observatory station is one of the most unique Maui experiences. The sun puts on an unforgettable light show as it pokes its head over the cloud line and illuminates the crater's interior. The crater's panoramic point of view allows you to witness the sun's light making its course across the entire island and the endless expanse of ocean around it. If you even begin to question getting up in the middle of the night in order to get to the crater in time for this solar magic, think again--it is most certainly worth the trip! The ride down Haleakala in daylight will also flood you with island eye candy.

If you desire a more active taste of Haleakala, there are several options. A local bike-tour outfitter leads biking trips down the volcano after the sunrise has tantalized viewers with its spell. Many hiking trails weave their way down the volcano, and campgrounds are available on the volcano itself.

Haleakala's Kipahulu coast, in the northeastern part of its base, is another source of natural beauty and adventures. On the serpentine Road to Hana (the Hana Highway, or Highway 36), plant life gets denser until it creates a lush canopy over the road. Flanked by a tangle of palm, bamboo, mango, guava, and other tropical trees, the Hana Highway (actually a two-lane road) winds dizzyingly until, for a split second here and there, the trees open onto a magnificent view of the coast. Waterfalls suddenly spurt out of the verdant inner cliffs in what must be one of the most breathtaking sights in the world.

As the road continues to wind eastward, several points of geological and natural interest pop up. Wainapapa State Park encompasses a dazzling black sand beach, which was formed by Haleakala's ancient lava flows. The park also contains campgrounds and trails.

Further up the road lies Hana, a heavenly coastal village that is as lush as it is relaxing. Around the Hana area you will find several white, black, and even red sand beaches--the red sand is also a result of ancient volcanic activity. Several miles past Hana, right before the stretch of road where rental cars are encouraged not to go, you will come across one of the most enchanted sites on the island: Kipahulu.

Kipahulu shelters Oheo Gulch, otherwise known as the Seven Sacred Pools--a chain of seven swimmable waterfalls that glide down the volcano, dropping into successive lagoons, until reaching the ocean at the volcano's base. Most of the waterfalls are not higher than 20 feet, and are generally safe to jump off of. Be careful, though: The volcanic rock at the bottom of the pools tends to be craggy. Daredevils will be enticed by the bridge that hovers over the midway mark of the seven pools' course. Sometimes, teenagers plummet off this bridge into the pools for sheer thrills. Hiking trails line the course of the pools, and are shaded with lush foliage.

After the long drive up to Hana and spending some time in Oheo Gulch, you may want to spend the night in the area. Kipahulu contains a beautiful campground just on the other side of the Oheo Gulch parking lot. There is a general car-camping area with picnic tables, but a quarter-mile's hike into the adjacent field reveals some camping gems. Squat trees stand in the middle of several clearings along the coastline. The clearings provide ample room to set up a tent or two, plus a stove. Some of the clearings connect to trails that lead down to the ocean, only a few hundred feet away. Sitting upon a black volcanic cliff as the surf pounds against it, and watching the sun spill its final rays of the day upon the waves is one of the most special experiences on Maui.

The car-rental companies tell you not to drive past Kipahulu for your return trip; they urge you to double back the way you came. While the taboo route has been successfully completed in a rental sedan, the drive leads through harsh road and weather (the Hana area is frequently doused with rain showers). You probably want to avoid such obstacles and return by way of the Hana Highway--most don't mind seeing it twice!

Your recollections of Maui will surely be colored by an incredible sunset on the ocean, snorkeling off the coast, and lounging on a beach. But to really take something special away with you, Maui's Orient will bestow you with images and memories far deeper than you'd imagined. •